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The GK-G240 Contractor Foldable G-Saw from Tajima is of high-quality workmanship. The saw lies very well in the hand and has a high grip. Furthermore, it convinces with a sharp saw blade, with which precise cuts can be made without much effort. The blade can be firmly locked at two different angles of inclination.
The Gardeners’ Folding Saw 200 P from Gardena has been manufactured to a high standard of quality. The saw blade can be mounted at three different angles of inclination. The saw blade locks in the desired position and is firmly locked in place. With the sharp blade, you can saw through hard and softwood with ease. You can do the work in your garden quickly and precisely without much effort. Due to the comparatively long saw blade, the tool is also suitable for larger objects. The only disadvantage is that the folding saw is difficult to transport.
The POCKETBOY 170 from Silky is of high-quality workmanship. The device is delivered in a practical protective case. The ergonomically shaped handle fits well in the hand and convinces with a high grip. With little effort, you can easily make precise cuts through any kind of wood because the saw blade is very sharp. The blade can be firmly locked at two different angles of inclination. The only disadvantage is that when you fold the saw blade in, it does not lock in the holder and therefore lies loosely in the device.
The Laplander Folding Saw from Bahco is of high quality. The saw has an ergonomically shaped handle and a sharp saw blade. With the device, precise cuts can be made. Compared with the other products, it requires a medium amount of effort. The saw blade can only be firmly locked at an angle of inclination. The problem is that the lock only releases when you press very hard.
The Folding Saw from GRÜNTEK convinces with an ergonomic cork handle. Furthermore, you can fix the saw blade at three angles of inclination. The blade is firmly locked in all positions. A criticism is that the saw blade is blunt compared to the other products tested. Despite the low sharpness it was possible to cut through hardwood. However, you have to allow for a little more time and also more force.
The Handsaw SW73 from Fiskars is the only product that is not a folding saw. The blade can be retracted and extended by means of a turning mechanism. The mechanism works perfectly and you can vary the length of the blade as you wish. Due to the low weight, there is a feeling that the saw has not been processed to a high quality. The first impression is confirmed during the test. The handle does not nestle against the hand and has low ergonomics. The saw blade is quite blunt compared to other folding saws, and the effort required is correspondingly high.
To protect your back, you can use a telescopic handle, especially for pruning.
Trees are more robust in summer and can cope much better with the cutting away of dead branches.
To protect your hands from potential injuries, it is best to wear protective gloves.
In the run-up to the test, we defined practical requirements and established the following test criteria:
To be able to evaluate these criteria, we have defined several tests for the folding saws. First the scope of delivery is checked. In the first test runs the saws are used to saw through birch wood with a diameter of about 8 cm and branches of a hazelnut tree with a diameter of about 2 cm. While working with the saws, the tester evaluates the handling and cutting quality of the saw. The finished cut wood is checked for good and precise cuts. The tester also tests whether the folding saws have a snap-in function for safety.
In order to exclude errors and to ensure that the saws are not subjected to the stress of everyday use, each test is carried out in several passes.
The test criteria are given percentages according to their importance. The final mark is finally calculated objectively from the test criteria using an algorithm.
Our product selection is based on the observation of the current market. In addition to popular brand products, we also include insider tips in our selection. Criteria such as price and range of functions are an important factor for us. The test field is also determined by analysis and evaluation of customer reviews and external tests (e.g. Stiftung Warentest).
The devices are purchased anonymously or lent to us by the manufacturer. Dealers and manufacturers have no influence on the tests and our evaluation.
As soon as new relevant products come on the market, our test field will be expanded to include them. The new products undergo the same tests as already tested devices.
Gardening is a little more complex, but it also gives a lot of pleasure and relaxation. It is possible to create your very own natural idyll. A well-tended garden allows you to grow fruit and vegetables, plant trees and hedges, grow ornamental plants, create a pond and finally enjoy the warm and mild days in a beautiful outdoor atmosphere.
You will need the typical gardening tools, especially garden shears, branch and tree saws, with which branches and twigs can be cut off more quickly. This is necessary for the growth of hedges and trees, so that not only the appearance is right, but also that the ornamental shrubs continue to flower and grow healthily.
Usually, for this work a folding saw is used, which ensures a very safe application and can be easily transported due to the construction of the saw. Modern folding saws are particularly suitable for clearing dense woody plants. Due to their special design, they do not get stuck in the wood and leave a very clean and fine cut.
The folding saw is a saw that has a special shape and usually has a rather thin saw blade. It consists of a top and bottom side with a corresponding handle element. The saw blade itself lies in between and can be folded up or down using an integrated folding and turning mechanism. This means that the saw is used slightly differently from conventional saws and still does not lose stability.
The folding saw is particularly suitable for cutting trees, as it can be stored in a space-saving way by folding it up and can be easily put in a trouser pocket or worn on a belt when climbing a ladder. In addition, the models are particularly light and robust, have a high sawing capacity and are suitable for many woodworking operations. The cutting pattern is very clean and smooth, which is an advantage for trees and hedges.
The folding saw is particularly suitable for cutting trees, as it can be stored in a space-saving way by folding it up and can be easily put in a trouser pocket or worn on a belt when climbing a ladder.
Often the saw blade on the folding saw can be exchanged or is sold with several saw blade lengths. In the same way, the serration is different, ranging from extra fine to medium and coarse cuts. The different toothing is important for certain applications. A fine toothing is suitable for deadwood and dry wood, the medium or coarse toothing for living trees and hedges.
Folding saws are used in garden and forest work, and their practical shape makes them popular with craftsmen. They allow the sawing of thick branches and are also an optimal tool for tree cutting in higher areas. They can be combined with a telescopic pole for more comfort in use. The folding saw can be used one-handed, making work faster and more flexible.
Preference is often given to Japanese folding saws, which are pulled through the wood with a narrower blade and do not require any impact. There are also differences in the toothing of the saw, with one-sided and two-sided versions available, which are either intended to allow a very precise cut or are intended for longitudinal and crosscuts. Apart from the classic tree saws, which are usually equipped with a wooden handle, the folding saw is one of the more modern branch saws, which are built in various sizes, with a wooden or plastic handle.
Almost all saws are designed to cut wood or even stronger materials. For this purpose, the models have a wide or thin saw blade, which can be smooth or have saw teeth. On the folding saw, the blade is usually toothed and very sharp. The cut is clean and without a large saw blade residue. Other saws, on the other hand, require more force and pressure and are also guided differently. A distinction is made between saws in electric or hand saws, which are available either as tack or stretch saws and are tensioned or untensioned models.
Tack saws are guided with a handle or a handle and are not tensioned. They include the well-known foxtail, the jigsaw, the fine saw, the rip saw and a number of high-quality Japanese saws. The latter enable sawing on the pull and have a conical and thin saw blade. Fine saws, on the other hand, are thin, rectangularly shaped and fine-toothed models that are reinforced in the saw blade. With this wood saw, especially straight cuts can be realized very well.
Stretch saws are tensioned saws with a tang that sits in a frame. There are subcategories like the hacksaw or the frame saw. The hacksaw has an oval steel bow with handle, the frame saw has a bar, a tension wire and saw arms. Hacksaws include, for example, fret saws and metal hacksaws, and tensioning saws include slitting saws, cut-off saws, fist saws and sweep saws.
For sawing thinner wood, the fretsaw is used, with which even narrow curves can be sawn. The saw, therefore, does not have to be guided in a straight line. It is used by craftsmen and gardeners for fretwork, including for example patterns in wood. Here, the handle predominates in size, while the saw blade itself is very thin and small. The handle is made of wood or metal and the bow is U-shaped. At the end of the handle, the saw blade is clamped between two screw clamps. This saw is also a pulling saw, but not as practical as the folding saw and various Japanese saws. This is due to the size alone, as well as the strongly tensioned, wire-shaped saw blade.
As a hand saw, the Japanese saw forms the contrast to the Western or European saw. The saw blade is usually less than one millimetre wide due to the pulling movement during sawing and allows a fine cut without effort. Japanese saws are divided into five models. There is the "Dōzuki", a simple saw with a body and toothed saw blade, which is reminiscent of the western fine saw, but has a narrower wooden handle. For deep and larger cuts the "Kataba" is used, which has a one-sided toothed blade without back. For flush sawing the very flat "Kugihiki" is used, for tree cutting the "Kobiki" and for cross and longitudinal cuts the "Ryōba" as a double saw, which is toothed on both sides.
Electric saws and differences
Besides hand saws, there are motorized and electric saws, including the circular saw or chain saw. Although these make work easier, they are not always practical for garden work, especially when it comes to cutting thinner branches or hard-to-reach areas. In addition, chainsaws are larger and heavier, require a power connection and are less flexible in use. Hand saws are always guided with pressure and muscle power, which is significantly reduced with Japanese saws and folding saws, as less pressure is required. While many tack and stretch saws are pushed and pushed during sawing, Japanese saws are pulled. For hedge and tree cutting, tree and folding saws are preferred, which allow a very safe use, but are also suitable for other wood sawing operations.
The folding saw offers many advantages for gardening, but also for crafts and outdoor activities. The safe use of the saw allows it to be carried without risk of injury. This is even possible directly on the body, which other saws cannot do due to their size, weight and open saw blade.
Most of the time the folding saw is used for cutting trees and branches without causing great damage to the wood. Many trees, including fruit trees, need the cut more often to be able to blossom again and bear new fruit. Harvesting is, therefore, more productive if the trees are pruned regularly. This involves dead branches and twigs, which can then be completely removed or severely shortened. A high-quality folding saw will then also wear out less quickly and remain sharp and ready for use for a longer period of time. The interface can then be smaller and smoother.
In addition to saving space, the folding saw is very flexible in use and is also suitable for denser wood or for fine cutting. Wood can be reached more easily, even in complicated places, without the cut surface becomes irregular. Due to the low pressure that the folding saw allows, and due to a sensibly designed saw blade, the cut is always smooth and clean when the blade is sharp. This, in turn, promotes the health of the trees and plants, which are less at risk from bacterial and fungal attack due to the fine cut with smooth cutting surface.
With the folding saw, fast, light, efficient, energy-saving and less stressful sawing are possible. It can be used with both hands or with one hand. With the Japanese models, cutting thicker branches is no problem, as they are very sharp and thin and allow comfortable working.
The folding saw is immediately ready for use and very light in weight. It is as efficient as an electric saw but is much easier to handle. No special knowledge is required to use it. It is uncomplicated to operate and is usually done intuitively.
It is as efficient as an electric saw, but is much easier to handle.
Compared to electric saws, hand saws and especially the folding saw offer silent sawing without noise pollution. Nevertheless, the models remain similarly efficient in sawing performance and can also be used in residential areas without disturbing neighbours by gardening.
Folding saws are available in various models and sizes. The saw blade can easily be changed for this purpose. In some cases, the saw blades are so well made that the cut can be made quietly and quickly.
The different saw blades and toothing allow versatile use. Especially fresh and wet wood can be cut better with a coarse toothing, without the saw getting stuck. With dry wood, on the other hand, the fine toothing is better for a smooth and clean cut. The folding saw is often reminiscent of a larger knife, especially in the Japanese version. This makes the handling so easy, which in turn is supported by the ergonomic handle. Here the saw is then also good for typical carpenter's work.
The folding saw enables the user to guide the tool relatively pressure-free, with the force being entirely on the saw blade. This means that the saw does the actual work, not the end of the saw. A slight pressure can be applied when the wood contains more moisture. In most cases, however, this is not necessary.
Japanese folding saws are set up flat and then guided in long and even strokes. The entire length of the saw blade is used, which saves time. If a thicker branch is to be sawn, it is important that the weight is reduced. To do this, it must first be lightly sawn in at the bottom with the folding saw. Then the cut is made from above until the branch slowly comes loose. A small distance to the tree trunk is good. The astring should not be damaged.
By guiding the folding saw, the lever forces work to cleanly loosen the bark connections. Crack wounds rarely occur, as the saw blade is finely serrated and sharp. Afterwards, the stump is removed from the astring, for which again the folding saw is useful, as it has an adjustable saw blade. The stump can be held by hand so that it does not snap off unfavourably.
It is important to make sure that the cut is smooth and clean so that the tissue of the tree is not damaged too much and can heal quickly. After sawing, it is also useful to smooth the bark tissue with a knife so that no bark fibres are left behind.
A comparison of both saw models shows the differences especially in the shape, handling, material, saw blade width and sharpness of the tool. Compared to the western model, the Japanese saw is not used by pushing forward, but cuts on the pull, the saw is pulled back accordingly. During the process, the saw blade keeps straight and does not run the risk of swinging or bending. Western saws, on the other hand, because they are moved by pushing and pulling, can change shape when too much pressure is applied. The cut becomes coarser and unclean, and the sawing process cannot be precisely controlled.
Another distinguishing feature concerns the saw blade itself. Due to the pulling principle, a wide and a rather rigid saw blade is not necessary with the Japanese saw, as is the case with western saws. In Japanese models, the saw blade is thinner and narrower. This has the advantage that fewer chips are produced during sawing, which saves power.
The saw blade is thinner and narrower on Japanese models.
Western models, e.g. the foxtail, are therefore wider and also thicker in the material so that they can withstand the high load and pressure of the impact during sawing. With the Japanese saw, the process is not only easier but also faster. Furthermore, the cut is also finer and cleaner.
The construction and high manufacturing art of the Japanese folding saw are related to the Japanese wood building culture, which is very old. In Japan, all buildings, from the simple house to the magnificent temple, used to be built exclusively from wood materials. The Japanese saw is, therefore, a traditional tool and is also artfully forged. This results in a much better cutting performance than that of Western models.
The saw blade is made from only one piece of wood with a tang if traditional saws are used. Modern models are also available with an exchangeable blade, which is then mounted and fixed directly to the handle by means of a screw. The handle itself also has a different shape is mostly made of wood and in some models is very narrow to support the lever and swinging movement. Compared to western models, it appears almost bar-shaped and can be up to 30 centimetres long. Modern and inexpensive versions are also available with an ergonomic plastic handle, which is also practical for longer use.
While western saws are guided with pressure and force and are suitable for either fine cutting or rough cutting, the Japanese saw is manufactured with teeth so that it is suitable for either longitudinal or cross-cutting. In addition, there are models with double saw blades that are suitable for both purposes. A special trapezoidal toothing, in turn, has alternately set saw teeth and is then better suited for cross cuts through fibrous material. There are also triangular toothing for cutting directions along the grain and universal toothing for longitudinal, transverse and diagonal cuts through the grain. An important feature for Japanese saws remains the sharpness of the teeth and the high-quality material.
In the field of folding saws, the Japanese variants prove to be narrower in shape and often resemble a knife with serrations. The usually thin saw blade does not allow for too wide cuts. Also, the cutting direction is difficult to correct and must be correctly aligned at the first approach.
As with any saw, the saw blade will wear slowly over time and with frequent use, even with a folding saw. The saw blade is then either replaced by a new one or sharpened. Sharpening is not always easy on certain models with complicated toothing. Some folding saws or Japanese models made of harder materials, on which common files then easily fail, are used for this purpose.
It is better to use sandpaper to get the saw blade sharp again. The inside of the saw is deburred to remove notches. If the saw blade is blunt and completely worn out, it should be replaced. It is also worth checking the folding saw's folding mechanism regularly for maintenance. The joints can be lubricated with a little oil and are thus more flexible again.
If you assume that trees in the wild do not require pruning, you forget that most trees for the garden are cultivated and ornamental trees. They not only allow for beautiful and powerful flowering, but also for a much more productive and tasty harvest. In addition, the shape of the tree can be visually enhanced. First and foremost, however, tree pruning serves to care for and promote growth.
The main purpose of pruning, however, is care and growth promotion.
The aim is to lighten the dense crown of ornamental and fruit trees. As a result, the trees bloom better, have more energy for new shoots and offer less area for fungal attack. For pruning, however, it is advisable to maintain a favourable balance so that branch and root masses are approximately the same. If the tree is pruned too much in the branches, it will sprout denser and stronger than before and will, therefore, require more work. The growth force should remain well distributed among the shoots.
The decisive factor is pruning at the right time of year. Pruning trees does not always have only positive effects, as every cut always leads to slight damage and wounds. On the other hand, trees are very robust in summer and can cope much better with the cutting away of dead branches. The healing process afterwards is quicker and cheaper. When using a folding saw, the cut surface is not too coarse and fibrous, which in turn greatly reduces fungal infestation.
Pruning can be carried out until August, as the tree then still has the opportunity to build up the important reserve substances that are necessary for new shoots in spring and are transferred from the leaves to the roots. Pruning in winter is possible for certain tree species if they retain the reserve substances in their branches. These include berry, pome and stone fruit trees, which can then be processed in late winter. Dead or broken branches can otherwise always be removed, as they break off more easily due to wind and storm.
Always use the right garden tools for pruning. Garden shears are available for thin branches, and branch shears or saws for thicker branches. Dense branches can be processed more flexibly with the folding saw, which then creates damp wood more easily even when pulled.
It is important that the cut is clean and close to the trunk or side shoot. If, on the other hand, so-called hat hooks remain, these branch stumps die out and are an attractive source of bacteria and pests. This weakens the tree and can also cause rot. If this is not noticed in time, it penetrates to the trunk. The same happens if the cuts on the tree are not treated. If branches break off, the tree becomes hollow over time. What remains are frayed and fibrous stands. These should be treated with a sharp knife.
With the folding saw, all larger branches are cut directly at the astring. This is the thickening at the base of the branch and enables faster tissue healing after cutting. In the process, the cut surface is closed with new bark. Although sawing is a little more complicated and takes longer at this point, sawing in stages prevents heavy branches from breaking off and leaving fibres. About a hand's breadth can remain between branch and trunk, the cut is made up to the middle from below, then from above until the branch is sawn through. The remaining branch stump can be sawn cleanly through at the upper astring. To do this, the folding saw is set at a slight angle.
If a branch has side shoots, these are not completely removed but only shortened. This is done at the lower eyes of the branch, whereby the last one determines the direction of growth and sprouts the most. By shortening, the shape of the tree can be better controlled and determined. On the other hand, upper eyes are not shortened, as the shoot there grows up too steeply.
Live and authentic: We get the devices into our Hamburg test laboratory. Here we take a close look at everything.
Each test is preceded by an extensive search:
Which suppliers are on the market?
What current products are there?
What are the comparison criteria?
What tests are we going to run?
What is the test procedure?
When everything's settled, we'll bring the devices to us. For each product the test procedure, the measured values and product properties are documented in detail. We create photos and videos. We evaluate the results for you, summarize everything in a test report and calculate the test grade.